Shayamanzi Houseboats 2nd tour

14^th – 17^th November 2021

Tour Report (By Brian Coombes)

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Jozini Dam (also known as Lake Jozini / Pongolapoort dam) in northern Kwa Zulu Natal is the largest dam in the province and home to the renowned Tiger fish and Shayamanzi Houseboats.

Situated 312km by road up the N2 and 4 hours from King Shaka International airport Shayamanzi Houseboats is based on the shores of lake Jozini, a short distance from Jozini town and the stunning scenery of the Lebombo Mountains and superb wildlife of the Pongola Game Reserve.

Shayamanzi has two houseboats aptly named Shayamanzi 1 (6 birth / 12 guests) and Shayamanzi 11 (10 birth / 20 guests).

Our first trip to this area was conducted from 16^th-19^th May this year and created a lot of interest prompting the call for a second visit, planned for 31^st October to 3^rd November.  We had booked a private charter on Shayamanzi 1 with 10 guests.
(See report: https://www.traveltime.co.za/portfolio/shayamanzi-houseboats)

Having enjoyed our May trip we had the opportunity of viewing Shayamanzi 11 which was being refurbished at the time of our return to shore. We needed to view the four Pontoon cabins on the lower deck to confirm whether they were suitable for our group of senior passengers.

Access was via a steep stairway and provided lower headroom when in the cabins. Regrettably it was decided that most of our group would have difficulty using these cabins (I bumped my head on the ceiling a few times). The cabins are well appointed but suitable for younger / shorter guests.

Our upcoming tour was confirmed on Shayamanzi 1 and well before departure date, all 6 cabins were assigned to 8 passengers on our private charter.

On 10^th October we got word that there had been a fire on board Shayamanzi 1 which resulted in the death of two crew, and I guest and destruction of the boat.

There was a lot of speculation surrounding the cause of the fire which resulted in unconfirmed reports. We discussed our upcoming trip with Shayamanzi Houseboats and booked passengers. All confirmed passengers on all future trips would now have to be slotted into the Shayamanzi 11 schedule, with possible new dates, flight changes etc. Fortunately, we were able to keep our original dates (31^st October-3^rd November) and got everyone’s confirmation that they would all continue with the trip.

The South African Marine Safety Association became involved in analyzing the accident as well as calling for another inspection of Shayamanzi 11. (They had done initial inspections  in July after upgrades had been completed on both boats). This 2^nd inspection was done in more detail and resulted in an instruction to attend to an exhaust issue on Shayamanzi 11 before any future trips could be considered.

This affected our trip which was moved to 14^th -17^th November, meaning flight changes, shuttle changes and local road transport changes. We redid all of this and within a week of the confirmations, British Airways cancelled our return flight, moving us back to an earlier departure time which affected our departure from Jozini and requiring that our return transport driver had to spend the night of 16^th November in Jozini to ensure we were able to leave Jozini by 8am on 17^th November. Carol also provided new pick-up times for local airport transfers.

OK, all reset and ready for the tour? Not quite!

Carol had been experiencing some dizzy spells with nausea since mid-October and consultations with her surgeon and a few tests proved there was no connection to her previous surgery. We did however mutually agree that Carol should not go on the Shayamanzi trip and offered her berth to Ingrid Hestermann, a long-standing supporter of Time Out and Traveltime tours. (More changes).

Further investigation as to the cause of Carols discomfort was confirmed by our local pharmacist who said that the GP prescribed pain killers provided exactly the after affects Carol was experiencing.

DAY 1: Sunday 14^th November shuttle pick-up started at 06h30 and with one exception all went well. The flight left on time and our Kwa Zulu Natal shuttle driver was ready and waiting for us on arrival,

Whilst baggage was loaded into the trailer guests visited Woolworths to gather some snacks for the 4-hour travel ahead of us. We did make regular comfort breaks however couldn’t have a “sit down lunch” due to time constraints.

Traffic levels were low until we reached Richards Bay where the trucks restricted traffic flow.
Our arrival in Jozini was around 4pm and we met the Shayamanzi Houseboat operations personnel at the Jozini Tiger Lodge where luggage was transferred to a local vehicle for transport to the boat anchored below the lodge.

We signed the required indemnity forms (content discussed during our road trip) and then followed our luggage down to the boarding deck to start boarding Shayamanzi 11.

Whilst loading our luggage and guests, I received a call from Shayamanzi base in Salt Rock, knowing the reason for the call, but disconnecting it until after our onboard introduction to the crew and safety briefing to follow.

Captain Alan introduced his crew, and I was pleased to see two of our May trip crew (Siya and Wiseman) were part of the current crew. A welcome drink was served and the safety briefing was presented.

Whilst our guests were shown to their cabins, I returned the call to Kim of Shayamanzi base in Salt Rock. She was in panic mode because our group had agreed to rule out part of the Shayamanzi Indemnity form which blatantly placed all blame of any occurrence firmly in guests’ hands and had no recourse on owners / crew / employees and agents for all / any occurrences arising because of owners / crew / employees and agents’ negligence or intent.

I was told that the boat would not leave the dock until all guests agreed to sacrifice their rights and accept the form as presented. We could wait on board until their lawyers were able to respond on Monday. After I discussed the standoff with our guests it was decided that we would sign the unchanged form but add a comment that the form was signed under duress and that in the event of any occurrence, our altered form should be read as well. This was accepted and our cruise commenced.

Captain Alan sounded the horn, indicating departure and we all inspected our surroundings and settled down for a relaxing refreshment on board and on our way to our overnight anchorage Hippo Bay.

My “surroundings” was the lower deck Pontoon cabin No 5. I checked that my luggage was in place and then returned to the upper deck.

It didn’t take long for everyone to relax and talk about our pending cruise over the next few days.

The content of all meals (Breakfast, lunch, and supper with snacks on the bar counter), for the duration of the tour was previously included in the tour “paperwork”, so everyone new in advance what was being prepared, including vegetarian etc.

Dinner comprised a butternut soup starter with garlic toast fingers and a buffet counter with roast chicken and vegetables with a plated dessert.

Most guests decided on an early night for an early start on the horizon (05:30) for those wanting to experience tiger fishing on Monday morning.

DAY 2: Monday 15^th dawned, showing a cloudy start for the tiger fishermen & woman. (Brian, Allan & Cilla).

Oh yes we should mention that Brian mis-stepped in the dark dungeon and crashed his knee into the “hard” carpet, drawing blood. A clean up and plaster from the on-board safety first box saved the day.

There will be daily fishing and game viewing at 7am and 4pm

Captain Alan stocked the one tender boat with rods, bait and refreshments and we headed out at 7am to a secluded area about 15 minutes travel from our anchorage. He set the anchor after checking the wind direction and we set about casting our lines into separate directions and waiting for the tell tail yanking of the line, indicating an attack on the bait. Well, the result was:  Brian zero (not even a nibble), Allan zero with one nibble and Cilla ‘one smash and grab’ with the tiger fish being landed. See the photo. Oh, and Captain Alan, also zero!

Returned to Shayamanzi 11 at 09h00 for breakfast.

At breakfast I announced that I was going to hand out a couple of fun questionnaires and hoped everyone would participate. The first part took the form of a word-search to find all guests names and some crew (11 names). The completed form to be handed back to me at which time the second part would be released. Only pre-requisite was that there must be no collaboration-or penalties would be imposed. Allan, Elaine, and Cilla got full marks and Ingrid F was awarded 10 / 11 due to forgetting to show one name. Others were on a sliding scale to 8 / 11.

In the meantime, everyone relaxed on board were taking note of the tribal land on the one side of the boat and the game reserve on the other whilst the boat moved along.

During lunch (Beer batter dipped fish and chips with salad) the second part of the questionnaire was handed out. This encompassed questions about the safety aspects on the boat as well as information provided on the folders handed out pre departure.

The “no collaboration” instruction was thrown out the window when Elaine hit a roadblock about question 9: How much is a Horny Hippo in the mud? and decided that the only answer was “phone my son”. The forthcoming answer was supported by questions of “buying or selling” details of drug lord Pablo Escobar of Columbia and 4 orphaned hippos who bred unattended and provided tons of Sh one t in the waterways. (The mud?).

So, this provided a huge amount of concern in Elaine’s mind and great hilarity for the rest of us, who all seemed to know that the Horny Hippo in the mud is a cocktail on the Bar list, cost R95 on the boat!
Also when all else fails, read the instructions: No collaboration!

The result was that there were no outright winners, but main failings were in the number of fire extinguishers on board and in the current level of the dam. (Which, some guests knew was in pre-tour what’s app messages and not on the printed information as I suggested). So, there were no penalties or prizes.

After lunch the boat headed towards Mosquito Bay with the decision to look for game and the spend the night near Nkwazi Lodge.

We spotted a few rhino and buck on the shore and then great excitement when someone spotted an elephant approaching the water. The one soon became 4 and then when we had decided to turn the houseboat towards the shore and then take a tender boat in closer, the 4 became 30. Great excitement as we approached the group, staying back a reasonable distance we witnessed the full group comprising a few babies and many older elephants up to the matriarch. Many in the water and rolling in the mud.

We returned to Shayamanzi 11, tied up the tender boat and relaxed on deck, sharing our photos with everyone.

The boat headed towards Mosquito Bay with the decision to look for more game on the way and then spend the night near Nkwazi Lodge. There were hippos out of the water, rhino, kudu, warthog, and plenty of birds to view.

Tiger fishing group left at 5pm and arrived back after dark with news of only one fish which slipped the hook while approaching the net.

Dinner comprised sweet & sticky pork belly ribs tasters (Giant mushrooms for Alice & Cilla), then braised rump / garlic boerewors and chicken, accompanied by salads and a plated dessert.

Then everyone relaxed around the table and on the fore deck to contemplate the day to come.

Day 3: Tuesday 16^th saw 3 guests going fishing at 7am and returning with no stories of the big one being lost.

After breakfast the boat turned and headed for our final overnight stop at Hippo Bay, nearer to Tiger Lodge, to ensure we could disembark by 7:30am on Wednesday morning.

The cruise today was very restful, but the weather started to turn, and the wind increased, and Captain Alan decided to push on to Blue Lagoon to get out of the wind path. This was the right decision as on approach into the lagoon there was very little wind. There were a few local fishermen in the area around the lagoon.

Lunch available on the buffet counter comprised: Spinach, Basil & Feta Quiche / Roast Fillet of Beef with Whole grain mustard / dressed mixed salad and sesame rolls.

A restful afternoon was spent in the lounge or in the cabin completing some business needs before Allan and Cilla went fishing with Captain Alan. This proved to be the best catch of the cruise which included 4 Tiger fish and one Barbel. Allan, Alan and Cilla all had catches. WELL-DONE GUYS. Your perseverance has brought results.

Pre-dinner drinks were enjoyed, and dinner comprised: Home made Tomato & Basil soup / Peppadew & cheese home-made Bread & butter / Balsamic, Honey & Rosemary Lamb Roast & Mint Sauce / summer vegetables / Lemon cheesecake for dessert. (Vegetable lasagne for Cilla & Alice).

Post dinner time we gathered the captain and crew and chefs to thank them for their sterling control of all aspects of the tour. We had previously discussed the gratuity Traveltime includes and most offered to add to our contribution. I am sure the 5 crew were happy with the contents of the envelope.

Bar bills were settled, and cases were then packed pending our early departure for Tiger Lodge in the morning.

DAY 4: Wednesday 17^th , early coffee at 05:30 am, for some, and breakfast available at 07:00. I spoke to Isaac, our shuttle driver and confirmed that we were on time for an 8qm departure.

We moved out of our anchorage at about 07:00, arriving timeously at Tiger lodge. Off loading of luggage and passenger disembarkation was flawless. As we all climbed into the local quantum vehicle Allan asked whether we could go to the dam wall which was close to the lodge. Nthlanthla, the local Shayamanzi operations guy said it was 5 minutes away, through Jozini town.

Jozini was indeed an eye opener, and the dam was well worth a visit. We arrived back at the lodge around 08:15, transferred the luggage to our vehicle and were on or way back to Durban by 08:30.

The return trip was un-eventful doing 3 comfort breaks and experienced increased truck haulage but still managed to arrive at King Shaka at 12:30, in good time. We had organised on-line check in on Tuesday and collected our boarding passes from Nthlanthla.

The BA flight was on time, but I discovered that BA / Comair had changed some of our pre-arranged and paid for seating. I find this totally disgusting that we are charged for the facility of selecting the seats we want, paying for them and then having them changed without advance warning. I have subsequently sent a scathing mail to BA /Comair but probably won’t get a response.

Our flight arrived in Cape Town on time and our shuttle drivers were waiting for us on exiting the arrivals hall. As I exited the plane, limping because of my swollen knee, I encountered an airlines lady with a wheelchair, and she asked if she could assist. I got a lift to the shuttle drivers and am thankful for that as I don’t believe I would have made it.

Now all I need to include is our thanks (Carol & myself) for joining me on this tour. Only sorry that Carol couldn’t be with us. It really was a super trip and we all had delicious, well-presented meals, good game watching etc, etc., thanks for the company and for the Shayamanzi crew.

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