30th December ’22 – 2nd January ‘23
Friday 30th December and our group of 12 (11 locals and one French lady Caroline Claverie) headed out from the Cape Town International Airport at 10h00. It is always easier to use Domestic Departures as a meeting point for everyone prior to departure – shuttles collect guests from their homes and the airport has easy access to the N1 or N2.
We chose to go along the R300 on the N2 which links to the N1. After a short coffee stop, we headed through the Du Toitskloof tunnel to Bosjes, 107km from CTIA. On arrival most of the group headed down to their Chapel with the stunning architecture which has won many awards for the Estate. Designed by South African-born Coetzee Steyn of Steyn Studio, the Bosjes Kapel is the winner of the 2019 Architizer A+ Popular Choice within the Religious Buildings & Memorials category, which was announced on July 9th. It has also been named one of this year’s only five Special Honorees, which include renowned international practices Heatherwick Studio and Mecanoo. The title of Special Honoree is awarded to key influencers and projects, chosen for their extraordinary contribution to the field of architecture. The award highlights projects that champion architecture’s potential to positively impact everyday life.
The Architizer A+ Awards promotes and celebrates the year’s best architecture and products. Co-hosted by the Wall Street Journal, its mission is to nurture the appreciation of meaningful design in the world and champion its potential for a positive impact on everyday life.
Most enjoyed the gardens and architecture, but perhaps we believe the gardens need clearer signage, or perhaps a map handed out at the front gate to make it easier to find attractions.
By this time everyone was ready for lunch, and we headed to Monk’s Gin where Connor, their brand ambassador, took us on a short tour and then we enjoyed a gin tasting with lovely cheese, charcuterie platters.
We then checked into our accommodation – The Tulbagh Boutique Hotel in Van der Stel Street. At 18h30 we headed to Daphne’s for dinner. We were welcomed by David and Arthur, and they set about taking our orders. Sadly, the Eskom power load shedding which was supposed to come back on at 18h30 only re-surfaced at after 20h00 which delayed our meal. The meal was delicious and gave us chance to meet new people on tour, and many of our group took advantage to stand outside to watch the setting sun.
Saturday morning and excitement mounted – our visit to Adene Flowers in Wolseley. Fortunately, arriving early it was cool, helped as well with a wind. The flowers in this paradise are just so exquisite and once you have walked through the various areas under cover, you are more-than-ready for a coffee and delicious cake! What a lovely morning – made even more special when Adene took time to have a photo with Carol and Sip. (Special memories)
The group then ambled to Theuniskraal where we had a lovely wine tasting under their large oak trees.
Theuniskraal lies in the heart of the historic Land of Waveren, a few kilometres outside Tulbagh. The farm has been in the Jordaan family since 1927, and the proud tradition of winemaking is now in the hands of the third generation. In 1948 Theuniskraal launched the estates first Riesling – and a South African icon was born. Natural farming methods combine happily with technology to bring out the best in each harvest.
After this a few enjoyed a lunch on the deck of the Tulbagh hotel and others enjoyed a rest or had a swim. After all, tonight is 31st December – the last night of the year 2022! The hotel pulled out the stops with a 3-course dinner. We tried to have a theme – SHINE BRIGHT – only a few ladies dressed to this theme – and Sip was in everyone’s estimate the Best Dressed SHINE BRIGHT lady (Wrapped in flashing lights). Traditionally many people celebrate the 31st well past midnight but Tulbagh was incredibly quiet and we even found ourselves by 11.00 pm thinking of going to bed. We did, but not before Carol produced a rhyme and gave everyone Glow In The Dark jewellery to wear……….Sip and John were also presented with a hamper – to show appreciation for having travelled with us on 4 tours during 2022, a record in Traveltime’ s 15 years of operation. ‘Well Done’ on this achievement you two!
Sunday & New Years Day dawned, we headed the 76km through Ceres, Prince Alfred Hamlet and over 2 mountain passes (Gydo and Mitchells) before we reached the little hamlet called Op-die-Berg and met Annatjie & Deon who operate ‘horse and carriage rides’ situated on a fruit farm just outside town! Deon met us in the stable and introduced us to two of their 6 horses which are used for carriage trips as well as guided horse riding tours. They then harness the two horses and our group was split in 2, for 6 on each ride. Deon elaborated about the area (mountains, dams, orchards as well as his fabulous horses which one could see were well trained and reacted well to his guidance). Deon stopped in the apple and pear orchards to give the horses a little break and we were shown a newly developed apple as well as recently damaged export apples (hail).
We spent a fabulous two hours on the farm with half the group resting under a large oak tree with refreshments whilst the other half enjoyed the carriage ride. – the highlight for Liz and Ingrid was that they volunteered to hose down and wash the horses. Amazingly, as soon as they were finished the horses are led back into the field and immediately roll in the sand!
We then spent fabulous time at their home. They have 4 little lambs who needed feeding – immediately 4 volunteers were found – and the precious little lambs were SO happy.
Annatjie and Deon then provided our group with a superb lunch (including wines and soft drinks)– lovely cold meats, and fruit platters – with homemade breads and apricot jam. A fabulous mustard sauce was also on the table and desserts of Cremora Tart and Malva pudding also formed part of the spread. Many requested recipes, which were freely (albeit it in Afrikaans – Carol or Google to translate).
We headed back to Tulbagh and a swim; short zzzz; catch up around the pool and at 19h30 we all met in the courtyard for some Sparkler fun – amazing to see our group saying “Remember when” – “When last did I hold a Sparkler”
Sadly, Monday, the last day dawned. Breakfast and check-out of the hotel and at 09h30 we headed to Murludi Fruit Farm– slight detour as somehow Google and lack of signage had us wondering ‘where Murludi actually was’.
After Murludi, four ladies went museum hunting and the balance of us visited Saronsberg wine cellar in the Tulbagh valley. A lovely hour or so under fabulous trees and we headed out of Tulbagh about 12h30.
Last stop was the Rietdakkie Padstal where Maryka warmly welcomed us and provided the history of this roadside shop. In the middle eighties of the previous century, the farmers in Breërivier grew vegetables amongst other products. These vegetables they would then take to the local market in Worcester where the hawkers would bid on the products. The hawkers soon realised that they were pushing the price of the vegetables much higher by bidding against each other, and then decided to cooperate: one hawker would bid and buy the vegetables, after which the other hawkers would then buy from him. This resulted in the farmers selling their products at a much lower price, which meant they in fact lost the desired income.
At that stage, Philip Botha, owner of the farm De Hoop decided he was not going to sell his vegetables for next to nothing. He rather stacked the vegetables on a wagon, which he parked alongside the road, and sold his products from there. His wife, Marianna, also joined in and baked ginger biscuits and bottled makataan preserve which she also sold from the wagon. This was the “birth” of the Rietdakkie farm stall.
In 1990, during the student holiday, Rian Botha built a stall of wood planks and put a thatched roof on it – hence the name RIETDAKKIE (which is Afrikaans for ‘thatched roof’). For more than ten years this stall was run by Marianna Botha, Martha Botha and Herculine Botha, the De Hoop farmers’ wives. In 1998 Maryke Botha also became part of the group. After numerous burglaries, the decision was made to erect a proper building. With the help of an architect friend, Phillip le Roux, plans were drawn up for a building that would look authentic, with white walls, gables and a thatched roof. This building was occupied in 2001. Yolandi Monzinger, who at that stage had been working in the farm stall for three years, was appointed as stall manager. In 2006 Rian and Maryke Botha became the sole owners of Rietdakkie.
We sat upstairs and enjoyed Salads/ Roosterkoek / Cheesecake and soon we were on the N1 highway heading back to Cape Town via the CTIA where Centurion was scheduled to collect the group at 16h00. A few delays due to the archaic way of not allowing the shuttles to park outside Domestic Departures had everyone on-their-way home within 35 minutes. Not too bad considering how busy the airport has become post-Covid. Exciting to see airline crews arriving and many people laden with cases heading who-knows-where.